A washer that stops at OE, a dryer flashing d90, a refrigerator showing Er FF. Each one is the control board naming the circuit that failed a test. This page lists the codes we meet most on LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, Bosch, Frigidaire and KitchenAid machines, what each one usually points to, and how we confirm it with a meter before writing a price.
An error code is the only thing your appliance will ever tell you in writing, so keep it. Photograph the display before you unplug the machine or press reset, because most boards clear the code on the next power cycle and some never store it. A code is a test result, not a diagnosis. OE on an LG washer means the board timed out waiting for the tub to drain. It does not say whether the pump is dead, the filter is packed with lint, or the standpipe behind the wall is siphoning. The same is true for a Samsung 22E or a Whirlpool F3E0. The code narrows the search to one circuit. The meter finishes the job.
Here is how a code becomes a number on paper. You call or book online and read us the code. It tells us which parts to have on the van. The technician arrives, pulls the code history off the board, then tests the circuit it names: resistance on a sensor, voltage at a pump, amperage on a heater, airflow at the vent. That is the $99 diagnostic, and it is already inside the written repair price you approve. Say yes and the repair usually happens in that visit. Say no and $99 is the whole bill. Book online and up to $20 comes off the repair.
| Code | Brand | What it means | What we do |
|---|---|---|---|
| OE / OF | LG | Drain fault — pump, filter or hose | Clear the filter, check the pump for a stalled impeller and read it under load. Confirm the standpipe height before we replace anything. |
| UE | LG | Unbalanced load — suspension, bearings or a soft floor | Spin the empty tub and check the rods and bearing play. In raised Lowcountry houses a bouncing floor sets this off too, so we check the level. |
| LE | LG | Motor locked — hall sensor or stator | Meter the hall sensor and stator windings and check for an overloaded drum. Usually one part, replaced in the visit. |
| IE / dE | LG | No fill (IE) or door not latched (dE) | Check both supply valves and screens, then test the inlet valve coils. For dE, test the door lock switch and the striker. |
| 4C / 5C (4E / 5E) | Samsung | Water supply fault (4C) or drain fault (5C) | Check pressure at the hoses and the inlet valve coils for 4C. For 5C, clear the debris filter and meter the drain pump. |
| UE / dC | Samsung | Unbalanced (UE) or door lock (dC) | Test suspension and check leveling for UE. For dC, meter the door lock assembly and inspect the wiring to it. |
| F21 / F02 / F9E1 | Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore | Long drain — pump, filter or drain hose | Pull the trap under the pump for coins and socks, then meter the pump. Check the drain hose for a kink or a too-deep standpipe. |
| F5E2 | Whirlpool, Maytag | Lid lock will not lock or unlock | Test the lid lock switch and its harness, then confirm the board is sending voltage before we call it a lock. |
| Code | Brand | What it means | What we do |
|---|---|---|---|
| d80 / d90 / d95 | LG | Airflow blocked — 80, 90 or 95 percent restriction | Measure static pressure at the vent and clear the duct. Crawlspace runs under raised houses pack humid lint into felt, so we check the whole length. |
| tE1 / tE2 | LG | Thermistor out of range | Meter the thermistor and compare it to the room temperature, then test the heater relay if the reading is fine. |
| HE | Samsung | Heating error — element, thermostat or gas ignition | Read the element for continuity, test the thermostats and check gas ignition. On electric dryers we also confirm both legs of 240 volts. |
| tE / tS | Samsung | Temperature sensor fault | Meter the thermistor and its harness. A sensor coated in lint reads wrong, so we clean the housing before we condemn it. |
| bE / bE2 | Samsung | Stuck button on the control panel | Check each key for a jammed contact and test the membrane. Humidity swells panels here, so we look for that before replacing the board. |
| AF | Whirlpool, Maytag | Airflow restricted at the vent | Measure exhaust pressure, clean the duct and check the termination flap outside. Then confirm the sensor that raised the flag. |
| L2 | Whirlpool, Maytag (electric) | Low or missing line voltage on one leg | Meter the outlet for 240 volts across both legs and check the breaker and cord. Common after a surge or a tripped double-pole breaker. |
| E64 | Frigidaire, Electrolux | Open heating element | Meter the element and the high-limit thermostat, then check why it opened. A blocked vent cooks elements, so we measure airflow too. |
| Code | Brand | What it means | What we do |
|---|---|---|---|
| Er FF / Er rF | LG | Freezer fan (FF) or fresh-food fan (rF) fault | Test the fan motor and check for ice locking the blade. An iced fan usually means a defrost fault, so we test that circuit too. |
| Er dH | LG | Defrost did not complete | Meter the defrost heater, the bi-metal thermostat and the defrost sensor. The one that failed gets replaced and the coil gets cleared. |
| Er FS / Er rS / Er dS | LG | Freezer, refrigerator or defrost sensor open or shorted | Read the sensor resistance against the temperature chart. A sensor that reads right points to a harness or a board. |
| 21E / 22E (21C / 22C) | Samsung | Freezer fan (21) or refrigerator fan (22) fault | Test the evaporator fan and clear any ice around it. A packed coil is a defrost problem, not a fan problem, and we test for that. |
| 33E | Samsung | Ice-maker fill-tube heater fault | Meter the fill-tube heater and check the fill line for ice. Same visit if the part is on the van. |
| PC ER | Samsung | Communication lost between door display and main board | Check the harness where it passes through the door hinge for broken wires before we test either board. |
| SY EF / SY CE | Frigidaire, Electrolux | Evaporator fan fault (EF) or communication error (CE) | Test the fan for voltage and the motor for a stall. For CE we check connectors between the boards, which corrode fast in salt air. |
| PO | Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid | Power outage — temperatures rose while the power was off | Not a fault by itself. We confirm the compressor restarted and check the board for surge damage, common after hurricane-season outages. |
| Code | Brand | What it means | What we do |
|---|---|---|---|
| F2E0 | Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag | Stuck or shorted key on the touch pad | Unplug the keypad ribbon and see if the code clears. If it does, the pad is the fault. If not, the control needs testing. |
| F3E0 / F3E1 | Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag | Oven temperature sensor open (E0) or shorted (E1) | Meter the sensor for about 1,080 ohms at room temperature, then check the harness. Most are a sensor swap in one visit. |
| F5E0 / F5E1 | Whirlpool, KitchenAid | Door switch mismatch or self-clean latch not locking | Test the door switches and the latch motor and cam. We also check the switch position, which shifts on a sagging door. |
| F2 / F3 / F4 | GE | Over-temperature (F2), sensor open (F3) or shorted (F4) | Read the sensor and compare it to the oven's actual temperature. F2 with a good sensor means a relay stuck on, so we test the board. |
| F7 / F9 | GE | Stuck key (F7) or door lock circuit fault (F9) | Isolate the keypad for F7. For F9, meter the lock motor and switches and check the latch travel. |
| F10 / F11 | Frigidaire, Electrolux | Runaway temperature (F10) or shorted keypad (F11) | F10 gets the oven shut off first, then a sensor and relay test. F11 is a keypad isolation test before anything is replaced. |
| F30 / F31 | Frigidaire, Electrolux | Oven sensor open (F30) or shorted (F31) | Meter the probe and the wiring back to the board. Rodent damage under a range in an older ranch house shows up here. |
| F9 | LG | Oven failed to reach 150°F in the first five minutes | Test the bake element or igniter, then the relay that feeds it. On gas we read igniter amperage, which tells us if it is too weak to open the valve. |
| Code | Brand | What it means | What we do |
|---|---|---|---|
| E24 / E25 | Bosch | Drain fault — filter, hose or pump impeller | Clear the filter and pump cover, check the impeller for glass, and confirm the hose has a high loop. Then meter the pump. |
| E15 | Bosch | Water in the base pan — leak switch tripped | Find the leak before we drain the pan: pump seal, hose, door gasket or sump. Then dry the float and test the sensor. |
| E09 | Bosch | Heating element or heat pump fault | Meter the flow-through heater and its relay. Bosch heaters live in the pump assembly, so we quote the correct part the first time. |
| OE / IE / AE | LG | Drain (OE), fill (IE) or leak detected (AE) | Clear the filter and meter the drain pump for OE. Test the inlet valve for IE. For AE, find the water in the base and its source. |
| 4C / 5C | Samsung | Water supply fault (4C) or drain fault (5C) | Check the supply valve and inlet coil for 4C. For 5C, clear the filter and meter the pump and check the air gap or disposer knockout. |
| LC / LE | Samsung | Leak sensor tripped | Locate the water in the base pan and trace it. Sometimes it is suds from the wrong detergent, sometimes a sump seal. We find out before quoting. |
| F8E1 (8-1) / F6E1 (6-1) | Whirlpool, KitchenAid | Slow drain (8-1) or no fill (6-1) | Clear the drain path and meter the pump for 8-1. For 6-1 we test the inlet valve and the float switch, and check the supply is on. |
| i20 / i30 | Frigidaire | Drain restricted (i20) or water in the base (i30) | Clear the filters and check the drain hose loop for i20. For i30 we find the leak and dry the pan before we test the sensor. |
| Code | Brand | What it means | What we do |
|---|---|---|---|
| Er IF | LG | Ice-compartment fan fault | Test the fan motor and check for ice around it. If the fan is frozen the problem is upstream, and we find it. |
| Er IS | LG | Ice-maker sensor open or shorted | Read the sensor resistance and the harness through the door. A good sensor points to the ice-maker module itself. |
| 39E / 39C | Samsung | Ice maker function error — cycle did not complete | Run a test cycle and watch the ejector and fill. Frozen fill tubes and stalled motors show up here, and we fix the cause, not the symptom. |
| 14E | Samsung | Ice maker sensor fault | Meter the sensor and its connector. A sensor out of range with good wiring is a module replacement, quoted before we start. |
| 40E / 40C | Samsung | Ice-room fan fault | Test the fan and clear any frost. A leaking ice-room gasket lets humid air in and freezes the fan, so we check the seal too. |
| Red LED blinks twice | Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid | Optics board or ice-level sensor fault | Test the emitter and receiver boards on the freezer wall with the door switch held. Blocked or failed optics stop production entirely. |
Washer Repair$99 diagnostic · up to $20 off online
Dryer Repair$99 diagnostic · up to $20 off online
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair$99 diagnostic · up to $20 off online
Range, Stove & Oven Repair$99 diagnostic · up to $20 off online
Dishwasher Repair$99 diagnostic · up to $20 off onlineIce Maker Repair$99 diagnostic · up to $20 off onlineTell us the code and the machine — the van arrives already loaded. $99 diagnostic, inside the repair.